Sun 15 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 2049km
With the wind in our backs, we left Compiègne around 0840 on our way to Château-Thierry. A long day was anticipated as we had not identified many suitable towns within our usual striking distance of around 60km. Initially it was overcast and cool but slowly the sun broke through. There was little traffic and we could enjoy the gently rolling countryside. The occasional climb was generally rewarded with a good downhill run.
After a morning coffee/tea stop in the only bar open in Crépy-en-Valois (who thinks up these names?) we pushed on for another hour or so before stopping for a picnic lunch by the River Ourcq (pronounce that if you can). Apparently that section of the river is a popular spot for birds to raise their young and we saw a family of ducks as well as a pair of swans with seven cygnets.
We roused ourselves after an hour and continued on towards Château-Thierry, a further 30km. We then belatedly realised that we had passed our 2000km mark (forgotten despite discussions last night) and so we promptly stopped for a commemorative photo. Tricky to organise with four bikers!
Our route took us past the sites of the USA and German cemetries for soldiers killed in WWI, particularly at Belleau Wood.
The Battle of Belleau Wood (1–26 June 1918) occurred during the German 1918 Spring Offensive in WWI, near the Marne River. The battle was fought between the U.S. Second and Third Divisions and an assortment of German units The battle has become a deep part of the lore of the United States Marine Corps. U.S. forces suffered 9777 casualties, included 1811 killed. Many are buried in the nearby Aisne-Marne American Cemetery. There is no clear information on the number of Germans killed, although 1600 Germans were taken prisoner. (Wikipedia)
We arrived in Château-Thierry around 1600 and after a coffee/tea break headed into the town centre to find a hotel. From experience we expected to see various hotels sign-posted but to our dismay there did not appear to be any at all. Being Sunday afternoon the Tourist Office was closed and so we resorted to asking some locals as to accommodation options. We were directed to one hotel but found that it was full. From our electronic maps we identified that there was another hotel about 2km out of town and so we resolved to go there, not realising that it was a steep climb the whole way! But what choice did we have? When the options are few, one just soldiers on, grinding up the hill, ignoring that little voice in your head that says 'what if they are full too?'
Fortunately the hotel had rooms, big enough for our bikes as well, and we were pleased to check-in. The only downside - no facilities close-by where we could get an evening meal. As we were seriously disinclined to cycle back down into Château-Thierry (and up again afterwards) we pooled our limited supplies of food, purchased what we could from a small bar nearby and some fruit from the hotel reception and decided that would have to do till breakfast. We'll no doubt be there as soon as the hotel breakfast room doors open at 0630 tomorrow morning!!!
Compiègne to Château-Thierry
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Belleau Wood
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Compiègne
Sat 14 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 1963km
Despite the promises of the forecasters, the morning was overcast with gusty winds, sometimes with, mostly against us. We headed due east, passing through Clermont on our way to Compiègne.
For some reason we all felt a little flat (perhaps too much good red wine last night) and the the wide plains of cereal crops, although pleasant, did not inspire us as they have in the past days. We are all looking forward to a change in vegetation when we re-enter the wine growing areas.
We reached Compiègne mid-afternoon and after a coffee/tea in the main square we found a modest hotel by the River Oise and settled in. Later we ventured into the old town and discovered the restaurant quarter and enjoyed another large plate of pasta in preparation for a longer day tomorrow.
Compiègne is only about 75km from Paris and is renown for several reasons. On May 1430 , during the Hundred Years' War, Joan of Arc was captured by the Burgundians while attempting to free Compiègne. They then sold her to the English who subsequently tried and executed her. But it was the Kings of France who put Compiègne on the map with the imposing palace they built for pure enjoyment. As Louis XIV is supposed to have declared: “At Versailles I am the King; at Fontainebleau a Prince, at Compiègne a country man.”
Not far from the town, the Glade of the Armistice in the Compiègne Forest was the site of the signing of two armistices; the 1918 Armistice with Germany and the 1940 Armistice with France. Hitler specifically chose the location, and had the original signing carriage moved from Paris to Compiègne, as an irony for the defeated French. The site still houses several memorials to the 1918 armistice, including a copy of the original railway carriage. The original, after use in the 1940 armistice was moved to Berlin as a trophy of Nazi triumph. The railway carriage was later taken to Crawinkel in Thuringia in 1945, where it was destroyed by SS troops and the remains buried. A replica now stands at the original site.
Also, for cycling enthusiasts, since 1968 Compiègne is the traditional start city of the famous Paris–Roubaix bicycle race. (all above information taken from Wikipedia)
Compiègne
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Beauvais
Fri 13 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 1893km
Not being superstitious we headed off early, initially climbing steadily out of the Les Andelys valley on our way to Gisors. The hazy morning light was beautiful, presenting a different aspect of the countryside. We stopped often to admire the views.
After a coffee/tea break in Gisors, about midway along our planned route, we continued on towards Beauvais. At lunch we stopped by a lake and sat comfortably on the grass under some shady trees, admiring the view. Following a simple repast of bread, cheese, tomatoes, capsicum and ham, followed by a banana for dessert, we took the opportunity to stretch out for a brief snooze. Beth stayed awake, reading, to ensure we didn't nod off for too long!
The final leg to Beauvais was generally easy except that, after a wrong turning, we had to find an alternate route and were confronted with a final long climb that we had not expected - the sort of surprise that is not appreciated at the end of the day.
In Beauvais we soon found a nice hotel situated in the town centre, close to Beauvais' famous Gothic cathedral, Saint-Pierre de Beauvais.
Saint-Pierre de Beauvais is the highest-vaulted cathedral in Europe. The vaulting in the interior of the choir reaches 48 m in height, far surpassing the concurrently constructed Cathedral of Notre-Dame in Amiens, with its 42 metre nave. In the race to build the tallest cathedral in the 13th century, the builders pushed the technology to the limits. Even though the structure was to be taller, the buttresses were made thinner in order to pass maximum light into the cathedral. In 1284, only twelve years after completion, part of the choir vault collapsed, along with a few flying buttresses. It is now believed that the collapse was caused by resonant vibrations caused by high winds. The choir was subsequently rebuilt at the same height, albeit with more columns. (Wikipedia)
Les Andelys to Beauvais
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Beauvais
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