France - Mayenne

Craon
Thu 29 May 2014     Cumulative distance 1210km
Today was a general holiday in France (Ascension Day) and most shops were closed. Fortunately we had been warned and had stocked up on the essentials for our travel - bread, cheese, ham and chocolate - what else could you need? We had decided to have a short day, concerned that accommodation may be hard to find in the smaller towns as apparently many people also take the Friday off to make a four-day weekend.

The sun must be awaiting for June to get its act together as it made only a fleeting appearance during the day but there was no rain and the wind was moderate, so we judged ourselves lucky.

As has happened on various previous occasions we were very pleasantly surprised by the small towns and villages we passed through - just names on a map to us until we arrived to find grand buildings, wide rivers and interesting old centres with narrow streets and crooked buildings. Château-Gontier was particularly impressive and after a picnic lunch by the river Mayenne, we wandered around town and, as we could only check into our B&B in Craon in the late afternoon, we whiled away an hour or so over coffees and teas in an an old brasserie near the town centre.

The final stretch to Craon took us through some superb countryside and, at around 4pm, we checked into our B&B 'La Demeure de I'lle' (booked the night before to be sure we had a bed for the night). 'La Demeure de I'lle' is located in part of an old mansion, and has been expertly renovated. Despite having a slightly dilapidated appearance from the outside, the interiors are very pleasing and we were soon comfortably settled. Our host offered refreshments and we enjoyed them sitting outside, admiring the gardens.

Being a holiday virtually all food outlets in the town were closed - only a takeaway pizza place was operating, so we cycled there, made our selection and placed our orders. As the pizzas were being made (they were very busy, for obvious reasons) we waited on the footpath and watched 10-year-old episodes of 'Friends' dubbed into French - the time passed painfully slowly! Finally the pizzas were ready and we cycled back to the mansion along the cobblestoned streets with the pizzas strapped precariously to Marianne's luggage rack and a bottle of rosé in Denis's backpack - where else but France could you buy wine at a takewaway pizza place?.

Our host had prepared plates and cutlery for us, and had lit a fire in the massive fireplace in the living room (isn't it supposed to be summer soon?)   A lovely way to end the day.

Château-Gontier Photo

 

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Heading for Craon Photo

 

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La Demeure de I'lle (our B&B in Craon)
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France - Sarthe

Sablé-sur-Sarthe
Wed 28 May 2014     Cumulative distance 1154km
The sun was shining as we left Château du Loir and we headed first to Le Lude and then on to La Flèche. The skies soon clouded over and it was cool but at least it didn't rain. We had no idea what to expect in these towns and, in La Flèche, we were pleasantly surprised to find a very picturesque town on a bend in the Loir river. Although underwhelmed by the 'Plat du Jour' we received at a small brasserie in one of the squares we enjoyed the break and in the early afternoon we pushed on towards Sablé-sur-Sarthe.

The back roads and bike paths took us through some beautiful areas of dense forest and wide fields of crops. The traffic was generally light, even on the short stretches of major roads we were obliged to use.

One peculiarity was a major road with three marked lanes. It was unclear who had priority to use the centre lane and it seems that traffic in both directions can utilise this centre lane when overtaking slower vehicles. We can only imagine what could happen if two vehicles travelling in opposite directions tried to use it at the same time. However this is a system that is used in numerous places across France and so they must have some sort of system to make it work (without too many fatalities).

On several occasions over the last days we have admired the ingenuity of cherry growers in using a large bird kite, attached by a string to a tall pole, to keep birds away that would damage the cherry crop. When the wind blows the movement of the bird kite appears quite realistic.

We reached Sablé-sur-Sarthe around 3pm and soon found the tourist office who directected us to a suitable hotel. After a pause to rest and refresh ourselves we went exploring, before enjoying an aperitif in a bar, and then finding a small crêperie for dinner.

Leaving Château du Loir Photo

 

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La Flèche
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La Flèche to Sablé-sur-Sarthe
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Château du Loir
Tue 27 May 2014     Cumulative distance 1074km    3 weeks on the road
Today we departed the Loire Valley and the numerous châteaux that line its banks. Our route followed minor roads in a generally northwesterly direction and took us through some beautiful areas with interesting small villages and towns. Cunningly we followed a minor river for much of the way, making for an easier run with no major hills.

Although still cool and overcast, there was little wind and no rain. Further improvements are promised and we are all looking forward to warmer weather when we can stow our cold weather gear for the rest of the trip. We made good progress as there was virtually no traffic on the tertiary roads and, having bought some pre-prepared sandwiches in a bakery along the way, we enjoyed our lunch sitting on a bench by the road in one of the small towns.

We arrived in Château du Loir about 3pm and cycled out to the railway station to yet another 'Hotel de la Gare'. As on previous ocasions we were pleasantly surprised to find a cheap but clean hotel offering us all the basic facilities that we needed.

Dinner proved to be interesting with a limited menu - the choice of main course being either steak or a locally-made pork sausage. Having seen this sausage offered on various menus over the last week or so, David, in a lightheaded moment, decided to give it a try, despite the obviously warning looks from the waitress taking our order. She even fetched a French-English dictionary to ensure that he knew what he was getting into. It would appear that the sausage was only put on the menu to ensure everyone chose steak!

When it arrived, one bite was all it took to determine it was inedible - we even joked that the hotel's dog would have trouble handling it and Denis indulged in a Pythonesque fantasy about the upcoming dog/sausage battle. There was a definite "I told you so" look on the face of the waitress as she cleared away the plates. Fortunately the meal was far from a disaster as there was enough steak to go around and the dessert was superb. We all laughed heartily when we heard the dog growling in the backyard.

Heading west towards Brittany
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France - Indre-et-Loire

Amboise
Mon 26 May 2014     Cumulative distance 1002km
The simple 'Hotel de la Gare' where we stayed the night proved to be popular with cycle tourers and another six arrived soon after us. In the morning there was much discussion (they spoke some English) about our gear, planned routes, etc, as we loaded our bikes on the footpath outside the hotel. We expect to run into them again somewhere in the next day or so.

Our day was short in terms of distance as we allocated generous time to visit Château de Chenonceaux with its majestic buildings and wonderful gardens. As we had only a short distance to cover to reach the château, we arrived before the crowds and could enjoy the place without the usual summer hassles.

Today we achieved our 1000km marker (after some minor objections from Denis regarding measurement accuracies were duly dismissed) and felt it fitting that this occurred in the vicinity of Chenonceaux.

After a couple of hours wandering about we retreated to the local village for a light lunch before completing the short trip over the ridge between the Cher and Loire rivers to reach Amboise. Its impressive castle sits on a hill overlooking the town and the river and dominates the landscape. As luck would have it, the rain returned soon after our arrival and so our sightseeing was curtailed and we retreated to the hotel we had found in the old town to plan and prepare for the next leg of our journey towards Brittany.

On to Chenonceaux Photo

 

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Château de Chenonceaux
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The château gardens Photo

 

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Amboise Photo

 

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