France - Côte-d'Or

Semur-en-Auxois
Sun 18 May 2014     Cumulative distance 621km
A magnificent day! After an early breakfast in our hotel room we cycled the 1.5km into the old town centre, intent of having a quick coffee and a short tour through the maze of narrow cobblestoned streets before heading north west towards Semur-en-Auxois, an estimated 75km away. Our plans were quickly derailed by the sleepy state of the town on a Sunday morning and the speed of service received. Fine for most of the other customers, content to sit and soak up the morning sun, but not at all what we wanted!

Our subsequent trip around the town was bone-shaking to say the least. Suffice to say that such cobblestoned streets, most of which are one-way, is best done on foot.

Once on the road (D970) we climbed steadily in a north-westerly direction through beautiful vineyards and forests and after cresting a ridge had an exhilirating downhill run to Lusigny-sur-Ouche and from there followed the Ouche river through a beautiful valley till it joined the Canal de Bourgogne.

The construction of the Canal de Bourgogne began in 1775 and was completed in 1832. The canal connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea via the Seine and the Yonne to the Saône and Rhône. The canal is 242 km long, with 189 locks and it passes through the departments of Yonne and Côte-d'Or. The highest point of the canal is the "partition" at Pouilly-en-Auxois, which is 378m above sea level. At this point the canal passes through a tunnel which is 3,333 metres long. The lowest point is at the junction with the Yonne at 79 m above sea level. (Wikipedia)

Cycling along the canal tow path was a pleasure, especially as there was minimal wind. We made good progress and shortly after midday we took a break to enjoy a simple lunch on the water's edge. Numerous other cyclists, most out for a bit of Sunday exercise, passed by, all wishing us "Bonjour, bon appetit" We then continued on till we were close to Semur-en-Auxois and then cycled the final 12km into town on a minor road with little traffic.

After some futile searching for an inexpensive hotel we decided to take rooms in what-seemed-to-be the only hotel near the town centre and, after a shower and change of clothes, we set out to explore.

Semur-en-Auxois has a medieval core, built on a pink granite bluff more than half-encircled by the River Armançon. The river formerly provided motive power for tanneries and mills, but its flow is now somewhat reduced by the Lac de Pont, a dam built upstream in the 19th century to provide water for the Canal de Bourgogne.(Wikipedia)

Beaune

 

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Beaune to Semur-en-Auxois

 

 

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Semur-en-Auxois
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Beaune
Sat 17 May 2014     Cumulative distance 537km
The morning was ideal - cool but sunny with clear skies and little wind - a great day to discover some of the wine region around Beaune. After finding our way through Chalon-sur-Saône - not much happening early on a Saturday morning - we joined a bike path along a section of the Canal du Centre. The path was wide and smooth and the riding was easy. In places there were snow-like drifts of poplar blossom lining the verges and the air was thick with flying blossom. Along the way we encountered a family of swans - parents and a gaggle of cygnets - absolutely charming.

The Canal du Centre, originally known as the Canal du Charollais, runs from Digoin, where it now joins the Canal latéral à la Loire, to the River Saône in Chalon-sur-Saône. It was opened in 1792 and made it possible, for the first time, for boat traffic to pass from the north of France to the south. It is 112 km long and has 61 locks. Most of its traffic came from the coal mines at Montceau-les-Mines. (Wikipedia)

At one lock we watched the passage of a large Danish cabin cruiser, just small enough to fit into the lock with centimetres to spare each side. The locks are very frequent and we all agreed that enjoyable though boating on this part of the canal may seem, the very frequent waits at each of the locks, that are in places only a kilometre or two apart, would be frustrating - far faster to travel on a bike and enjoy the scenery without the constant stops.

We departed the canal after Chagny and then connected with another bike path that followed an old railway route, travelling on an elevated embankment with great views either side and crossing a couple of impressive stone viaducts. After a light lunch in Nolay we encountered a few steep climbs (we all pushed some of the way) before reaching a high plateau with fantastic views to the east. All our efforts were rewarded with a long zooming downhill run towards Beaune which we reached around 5.30pm. The old town looks fascinating but was still awash with day-trippers and so, after a brief break for a cooling drink, we headed out to our hotel, located about 1.5 km from the centre. We settled into our rooms well pleased with our day's adventures.

Chalon-sur-Saône to Beaune

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