Fri 16 May 2014 Cumulative distance 467km (no change)
After seven days cycling we needed a rest day and enjoyed a late(ish) breakfast before doing some chores - overdue laundry, some shopping, bike maintenance and route planning. We then visited the local Friday market in the cathedral square and returned later to enjoy the 'Menu du Jour' in one of the many restaurants, sitting in the glorious sunshine, tucked away out of the wind.
After a relaxing afternoon and a visit to a regional food and wine being held in one of the town squares, we returned to our hotel feeling refreshed and ready for the next chapter.
Rest Day Chores
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Friday Market & Lunch
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Chalon-sur-Saône
Thu 15 May 2014 Cumulative distance 467km
It was nice to be out in the open countryside after enjoying the mountains. In cloudy conditions with a cold gusty north wind we headed towards Chalon-sur-Saône following lesser roads where possible to avoid the traffic. Unfortunately that was only possible in parts and, by the end of the day, the combination of cold head wind, traffic noise and frequent roadworks (with a few too many instances of stupid driver behaviour on the resulting one-lane sections) had tired us out and we were looking forward to a well-earned rest.
Despite these tribulations we enjoyed the rolling terrain and the wide fields of newly planted crops just showing their heads. When the sun came out it was glorious and the beautiful old farmhouses along the way called for frequent stops to admire - any excuse really.
There were a few minor dramas - in one town, a low curb leapt out to trip Beth's bike, causing her to sprawl onto the footpath. Fortunately the panniers helped to cushion her fall and a grazed elbow and bruised knee, as well as a large jolt of adrenaline, were the only consequences. Such things happen in a flash and for the rest of the day we all approached any kerb or rail crossing with exaggerated caution.
As Beth is the only tea drinker among us it takes little imagination to know what was judged the root cause of her problem - there was some debate as to whether it's the milk she adds.
Approaching Chalon we needed to cross a major road and as we neared it we saw that there was a dedicated bike lane marked to 'help' negotiate the large and busy roundabout. Against all our previous experience, we took this lane and were soon placed in the dangerous position of having to cross three of the roads entering the intersection, with no right of way for cyclists and an obvious disinclination of drivers to stop for us. It was hairy! Finally one driver showed some courtesy and allowed us across the final road. Lesson - ignore bike paths at major intersections, just be part of the traffic, at least then you have the normal traffic rights.
To our dismay we have also found that the drivers in this part of France have little or no respect for pedestrian crossings. After the rigorous stopping behaviour in Switzerland this has come as a shock and we are hopeful that it is a pattern that will not continue to occur as we head westward.
Once in the town we quickly found a qwerky old hotel near the river with very friendly and helpful staff who were full of suggestions for things to see and do, where we could find a laundromat, a bike shop and a few good restaurants. As we plan to have a rest-day here this was doubly useful.
On the road to Chalon
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Chalon-sur-Saône
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