Wed 4 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 1485km
A very windy day with early showers was predicted and the grey morning came as no surprise. After delaying our start for a short time we grew impatient and decided to brave the elements and head for Cancale following the scenic coastal route. We pulled on our wet weather gear yet again and found (as usual) that the weather looked worse through the window than when on the road. Only the wind made riding a bit tricky as a sudden gust could push you a metre or two sideways. As there was little traffic we rode in the centre of the road to give ourselves plenty of leeway.
The winds (predicted : 35kph steady, gusting to 50kph) were from the west and so we had the benefit of a good tailwind - a nice change. Of course, as true bikers, we disputed the strength of the wind-assist, as we zoomed along the flat at an effortless 30kph and even achieved over 20kph on some of the lesser climbs.
We ventured out to Pointe du Grouin and were nearly blown off our feet as the winds intensified. The cafe there offered a retreat and after a coffee/tea we were pleased to find that the clouds were lifting and the sun was struggling to break through. Unfortunately, in the prevailing conditions we could not yet see Le Mont-St-Michel across the bay.
We cycled (or sailed) down to Cancale and enjoyed the relative protection of the harbourside strip of cafes, bars and restaurants. The temptation to enjoy the sun, out of the wind, proved too great and so we had a pleasant lunch watching the passing parade of tourists (including several groups of bike tourers).
The wind made our progress towards Le Mont-St-Michel easy and we soon had a far better view of our goal. Along the way we passed a carwash and decided that our bikes could do with a high-pressure washdown after more than 4 weeks on the road. We had great fun with the waterspray and the bikes positively gleamed afterwards.
As the afternoon progressed we decided to seek some accommodation, not so easy just at present as the upcoming 70th Anniversary celebrations of the D-Day landings (6 June) has caused a massive influx of overseas visitors and an associated increased demand for rooms. After various enquiries along the way we reached Pontorson, about 10km south of Le Mont-St-Michel, and, with the assistance of another hotelier (his house was already full), we latched onto a couple of rooms in one of the better hotels. Tomorrow we will head off to see Le Mont.
Windy Conditions
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
Cancale
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
On to Le Mont-St-Michel
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
St-Malo
Tue 3 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 1420km 4 weeks on the road
Our route from Dinan to Dinard on the Channel coast initially followed the Rance river before deviating to a disused railway bed that had been converted to a cycle path. Aside from an early steep climb the gradients were very moderate and we made good progress, reaching Dinard at around 11am.
Dinan to Dinard
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
In the late 19th century American and British aristocrats made Dinard popular as a fashionable summer resort, and they built stunning villas on the cliff tops and exclusive hotels such as the 'Le Grand Hotel' on the seafront during the French "Belle Époque". However, it was subsequently eclipsed by warmer, more sunny, locations on the Mediterranean.
We cycled directly to the coast as Denis was keen to complete his 'Summit to Sea' quest, having crossed France from the Alps to the Channel. We then circled around, looking for the centre of the town but without any real success. As the sun struggled to break through the heavy overcast we decided that Dinard had had its day for us too and headed east, along a busy road, to reach St-Malo on the other side of the Rance river.
Dinard
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
On arrival we immediately saw that St-Malo was a completely different town to Dinard - here there were many more tourists and a higher level of activity. The fortified town with its high sea walls was impressive. As it was close to low tide when we arrived (tides of 10m are common) it was hard to imagine massive storm waves battering these walls and sending high plumes of spray over the waterfront buildings. However there was no shortage of dramatic photos to demonstrate the sea's occasional ferocity.
In the past, St-Malo was notorious as the home of the corsairs, French privateers and sometimes pirates. The corsairs of St-Malo not only forced English ships passing up the Channel to pay tribute, but also brought wealth from further afield. Jacques Cartier, who sailed the Saint Lawrence River and visited the sites of Quebec City and Montreal – and is thus credited as the discoverer of Canada, lived in and sailed from St-Malo, as did the first colonists to settle the Falklands – hence the islands' French name Îles Malouines, which gave rise to the Spanish name Islas Malvinas (Wikipedia).
After lunch in a cafe in the old town, we headed to a hotel that had been recommended and soon had rooms for the night and a garage to store our bikes. Following a shower and a short rest it was time to explore again. At low tide, the path out to one of the offshore islands is exposed and from this island we could enjoy the views back to the city and along the coast.
St-Malo
 |
 |
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
No comments:
Post a Comment