Wed 18 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 2186km
Heading south-eastward we departed the Champagne region, saying farewell (for the moment) to the neatly combed hillsides of vines. In the much flatter terrain towards Châlon-en-Champagne, the large expanse of cereal crops, dotted with white painted silos, was reminiscent of some parts of rural Australia.
In the hazy morning light the scenery took on a special aura and we enjoyed the riding, making good progress despite some head winds. South of Châlon we followed the 'Canal Latéral à la Marne' for a period - easy riding that reminded us of our early canal path experiences.
We reached Vitry-le-François by mid-afternoon and after a stop for coffee/tea and icecream we went in search of a hotel. To our dismay, all the hotels in the town were full but the very helpful young woman at the Tourist Office persevered and finally found us two rooms in the only 'Chambre-d'Hôtes' (B&B) in town. The rooms were rather qwerky as each was equipped with a large spa bath in one corner, a cabinet with hand basin and an en-suite toilet tucked into a cupboard-sized room. After unloading our bikes we were glad to have a wash and put our feet up for a while.
Épernay to Vitry-le-François
|
|
|
|
|
|
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
Épernay
Tue 17 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 2108km (no change) 6 weeks on the road
A rest day and after the chores we arranged to visit the extensive cellars of Merciers, one of the many champagne houses located in Épernay. To reach Merciers we walked the length of Avenue de Champagne and were impressed by the magnificent houses, offices and storage facilities built by the various champagne entrepreneurs of past years.
Merciers is one of the larger firms, established in 1858, and it has an impressive 18km of cellars, 30m below ground in the native limestone. We signed up for a tour and after descending in a large elevator we climbed aboard a small train that slowly took us on a circuit through part of the cellar complex, giving us a glimpse of the many thousands of bottles stored there. In several places the tunnels are decorated with wall carvings. We were equipped with audio units that gave a running commentary in English throughout the journey.
Afterwards we sampled three of their champagnes and learnt a little about the art of champagne making. At the conclusion of an enjoyable visit we ambled back to our hotel, and had a productive hour or two planning the next phase of our travels.
Champagne Visit
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
Épernay
Mon 16 Jun 2014 Cumulative distance 2108km
We wished for a change in scenery and today we received one in abundance. Along the Marne Valley and surrounding areas the hillsides were covered in vineyards, all dedicated to the making of champagne.
After a series of arduous days Beth & Denis opted to take the more direct route to Épernay following closer to the river, while Marianne & David took a more circuitous route with a few more climbs involved.
The vineyards were a flurry of activity as vines were trimmed and prepared for the summer, and small white vans (apparently standard equipment for champagne growers) dotted the landscape. Most trimming was done by machines ('praying mantises' as Denis called them) that straddle two rows of vines and have multiple whirling cutting blades to trim the sides and tops of the rows as they are driven along. They are also used to spray the plants. We stopped numerous times to admire the views as the road climbed and descended along the valley.
Every small village seems to have several champagne producers, with dozens in the larger ones, so the total number of individual companies supplying the champagne market must be staggering.
After a lunch stop along the way, we all arrived in Épernay around 1400 and met up at the Tourist Office, and soon moved into a centrally located hotel to rest and refresh ourselves. After six days on the road we have decided to take a rest day in Épernay, to complete the usual chores and allow us to discover more about the Champagne region, and sample some of its produce.
Épernay is a pleasant town, best known as the principal "entrepôt" for champagne wines, which are bottled and kept in large cellars built into the chalk rock on which the town is built. The production of the equipment and raw materials used in the champagne industry is a major source of local employment. (Wikipedia)
Château-Thierry to Épernay
|
|
|
|
|
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
Épernay
|
|
|
 |
 |
(click on image to enlarge in a new window)
No comments:
Post a Comment