Switzerland - Basel

Basel
Sun 29 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2739km
We departed Battenheim in overcast conditions with a blustery wind and headed south, bypassing Mulhouse (dead quiet on a Sunday morning) and joined the cyclepath along the 'Canal du Rhône et Rhin' and then the 'Grand Canal d'Alsace' all the way to Basel in Switzerland.

Aside from a few brief showers the rain held off and the riding was easy, as we were mostly sheltered from the wind by surrounding forest. We stopped just north of Basel for a late morning coffee/tea (to dispose of excess Euro change) near the 'Drei-Länderbrücke' (Three Countries Bridge) - a pedestrian/bicycle bridge across the Rhine river at the point where the borders of France, Germany and Switzerland meet. To change our two country tour into a three country one we cycled across in to Germany, said "Guten Tag" and then turned around and cycled back to France! We soon crossed into Switzerland and entered Basel, a place very familiar to Marianne whose aunt lives there, and after wending our way through the old town we stopped at a cafe for lunch.

Basel marks the end of our combined tour. Over the next few days Beth and Denis will continue on, taking a relatively direct route back to Oberbalm (Marianne's sister's home) where they will clean and pack their bikes ready for our return flight late in July before taking a train back to Paris to visit family.

Marianne and David will stay a while in Basel with old friends and then take a more circuitous route back to Oberbalm, stopping to visit others along the way, arriving there about a week after Beth & Denis have left for Paris. We will all be re-united a day before our flight home.

Reporting will be limited to the periods when we are cycling and other activities will be captured elsewhere.

Battenheim to Basel Photo

 

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France - Haut-Rhin

Battenheim
Sat 28 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2684km
The rain started soon after we left Orschwiller and we re-acquainted ourselves with our rain gear. Our B&B hosts had told us that they had not had any rain in the valley for more than two months and everyone there was hoping for a serious downpour. The intensity fluctuated, at times heavy, at others barely a mist. The views into the Vosges mountains and across the valley to the Black Forest over the border in Germany were beautiful, with leaden skies and rows of ridges in graduated tones of grey.

Along the way we passed a field with several storks collecting food for their young. We have seen many storks in the last few days, mostly nesting high on roofs in prepared 'baskets' set there by the building owners, as it is considered good luck to have a stork on the roof. The large nests are currently crowded as the young storks, born in spring, have grown to be almost as large as their parents and are just about ready to fly. We have seen nests with as many as five storks - two adults and three young - quite a squeeze!

The rain eased in the late morning and we stopped in Colmar for morning coffee/tea. Colmar is yet another delightful old town with interesting streets, squares and buildings. An area that is crossed by canals of the river Lauch is now called "little Venice" (la Petite Venise). It is a popular tourist stop and there were two tourist trains circulating past the town's most notable attractions.

Departing Colmar and finding the 'Wine Route' bike path towards Mulhouse proved a little challenging (at one stage we found ourselves on the Autoroute on-ramp) but eventually we navigated across country and got back on track. The bike routes are scenic but typically take a less direct path than the roads and so by 1600, having covered more than 70km, we decided to seek accommodation and not continue on to Mulhouse. In Battenheim we found a pleasant old hotel, with a good restaurant, and soon had rooms for the night. Not long after the skies darkened again and a strong thunderstorm with lightning and heavy rain rolled through. Hope the farmers are happy!

Storks, storks, storks
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Colmar
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Orschwiller
Fri 27 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2612km
The ride up to Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg involved a steady 500m climb over about 8km (gradient 6-7%), a challenge even on unloaded bikes. Denis powered ahead while the rest adopted a more leisurely pace, arriving at the top about 7 minutes behind him. After a celebratory icecream we locked the bikes and spent an hour or more visiting the castle - a truly impressive construction with a long and interesting history.

The Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg is situated in a strategic location on a rocky spur overlooking the Alsatian plain; as a result it was used by successive powers from the Middle Ages until the Thirty Years' War when it was abandoned. From 1900 to 1908 it was restored under the direction of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Today it is a major tourist attraction, located on the Alsace wine route. (Wikipedia)

The ride down from the castle was exhilarating - long descents through the forest with many curves and occasional hairpins. The road surface was good, the traffic light and so we could really zoom along. We stopped for lunch in a small restaurant midway down and then continued on to Ribeauville to admire the superbly restored and maintained old village. Storks were in residence on various rooftops - considered to be a sign of good luck. The trip back to our B&B in Orschwiller took only another half hour and we settled down for a lazy afternoon, well pleased with our day's efforts.

Haut-Koenigsbourg
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Ribeauville
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France - Bas-Rhin

Orschwiller
Thu 26 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2574km
As our cycle tour approaches its end we are all determined to make the most of the last few days in France. On yet another clear sunny day we cycled roughly WSW from Strasbourg to join the famous Alsace 'Route du Vin' that winds its way southward along the vineyard-covered slopes of the Rhine Valley, passing through one picturesque old village after another.

There were a few sharp climbs but it was well worth the effort as the scenery was (again) superb. We stopped to wander a little in some of the villages and were always impressed with their well maintained appearance. Obviously tourism is an important component of their income but there was also an obvious pride in their home and gardens - flowers were everywhere.

Around 1600 we stopped in Scherwiller with the intention of finding a small hotel for a couple of nights as tomorrow we plan to ride (unloaded) up to the castle 'Haut-Koenigsbourg'. In the Tourist Office we were informed that, due to a conference in a neighbouring town over the coming weekend, virtually all accommodation was booked out. The young woman at the office worked tirelessly, making numerous phone calls to check options before finally finding a small B&B in a village (Orschwiller) about 10km further south. We thanked her fulsomely for her assistance, all at no cost, and then set off again in the afternoon warmth to find our abode.

The B&B sits virtually below 'Haut-Koenigsbourg' that dominates the landscape and should be ideal for our expedition tomorrow.

For dinner we went into the village and found a lovely little hotel-restaurant. As usual we decided to try the local wine and noted that, on the wine list, virtually all of the around 30 wines were from the Orschwiller region, with only few from the neigbouring village. After asking our preferences, our host selected a 2012 'Pinot Blanc' for us and advised that it had been grown less than a kilometre from the restaurant - it doesn't come more local than that!! The food and the wine were excellent.


Strasbourg to Orschwiller Photo

 

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Strasbourg
Wed 25 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2506km (no change)
A day to explore the city with its many interesting streets, squares, buildings, museums and exhibitions and to 'get the feel' of the place. Lots of the locals rely on their bikes to get around and there are many cycle paths around and across the city. They zip along at a good pace, weaving through the pedestrians and, like Amsterdam, you soon learn to look before stepping out onto a bike path as you are more likely to be hit by a bike than a car or tram as you wander about!

More Strasbourg Photo

 

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Strasbourg
Tue 24 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2506km
A delightful day, initially rolling down from the heights into the Rhine valley, on one of the descents reaching speeds of more than 60kph. What a buzz! The small villages along the way were very picturesque with old wood-framed buildings, beautifully restored and the surrounding countryside was superb. In the warm, sunny conditions, with a light cooling breeze, the conditions were absolutely ideal for cycling and it was a joy to be on the road.

After a picnic lunch under a shady tree we continued on and found our way without difficulty into the centre of Strasbourg. Our first impressions of this famous town were very positive and they only got better. Every corner revealed a new delight - rushing rivers, magnificent old buildings, imposing fortifications.

Strasbourg is a popular tourist destination (for good reason) and the centre was awash with people. We cycled (carefully) through the crowds to the Tourist Office and got information on hotels that could accommodate cyclists (specifically securely store bikes) and still had rooms available - not a very large selection as it turned out. So, after a stop for a well earned ice-cream, we started our search, ultimately finding a place to stay a little outside the centre but still within easy walking distance of the old town.

We've decided to spend another day in Strasbourg to get to know it better and visit some of its main attractions.

Obersteigen to Strasbourg
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Obersteigen
Mon 23 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2459km
A short day, distance-wise, but we knew we would be crossing the mountain range that separates Alsace from the rest of France and were unsure as to how difficult this may prove to be. After purchasing the makings of our planned picnic lunch - fresh bread, cheese, tomatoes, capsicum and, of course, bananas - we departed Sarrebourg around 0930.

Our route took us along the D45 which climbed steadily after Schaeferhof to Dabo. Marianne especially was happy to be back in the mountains again - her favourite place - and we could all feel the differences - fresher air, clear water in the many streams and the smell of the pine forests. We had hoped to stop earlier for coffee but, being Monday morning, most cafes and restaurants were closed and so we were forced to wait till reaching Dabo before taking a longer break.

The remaining climb to the pass (Col de Valsberg) was less arduous than we had expected and we were pleased to reach the top shortly after midday. Surprisingly the sign marking the Col was located a little below the highest point of the crossing and we surmised that this was because there was a military installation at the crest and the authorities preferred that this should not form the backdrop to the innumerable photos taken at the pass sign to record the achievement of walkers and cyclists.

After adding our own record photo to that list we rolled down until we found a pleasant spot for our picnic lunch, under some shady trees, with broken views onto the valley below. After a relaxing hour or so we continued our descent and stopped in Obersteigen and booked into the small hotel there to enjoy the mountain ambience. We will continue on to Strasbourg tomorrow.

Sarrebourg to Obersteigen Photo

 

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