Route Map
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Three Pass Route Map
Marianne & David
Day 1 - Mon 14 Jul 2014 : Prestone
While Beth & Denis have been enjoying themselves in Paris and other parts of France, we have been relaxing at Oberbalm, our activities somewhat inhibited by the persistent bad weather. Fortunately a distinct improvement in the conditions was predicted and so the timing was ideal for us to head into the Alps, to tackle a few of the mountain passes in the Oberengadin.
The Oberengadin area extends from Maloja to Zernez, and encompasses St. Moritz and Silvaplana. The area is very picturesque with large lakes, forests and wide grassed areas, swathed in wild flowers during spring and summer.
With a minimum of luggage (rackbag, barbag only) we took a train to St. Moritz (Elev 1775m) and there collected our bikes that we had dispatched a day or so earlier. After a light lunch we started off around 1300, following a bike path away from the main road and wound our way through some densely wooded areas southwestward towards the Malojapass, the first of three passes on the loop we had selected.
At the higher altitudes the weather was cool and overcast but there were clear indications of improvement. As we descended the valley and crossed into Italy, the temperatures rose and by the time we reached Chiavenna, after a descent of about 1480m, it was downright hot. Not optimal for the first hard ascent, climbing 700m over 11 km with some sections of 13%, to reach Prestone for our first overnight stop. We were disappointed to find that despite all the kilometres cycled in France, our climbing stamina was only mediocre, and we were uncomfortably hot, tired and a little sore by the time we reached our hotel. On consideration we realised that, unlike earlier tours, we had encountered only a couple of significant climbs while in France and so should not be surprised to find our climbing muscles underdeveloped!
St Moritz to Prestone
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Marianne & David
Day 2 - Tue 15 Jul 2014 : Thusis
Fortunately, we woke the next morning feeling few ill-effects from the previous days exertions - a good thing as we had another long ascent ahead of us to reach the Splügenpass, a climb of about 1100m over about 22km, again with some sections of 13%.
When paying the hotel bill, our host, a very friendly Italian, suggested an alternate route to avoid a dangerous narrow winding section, and then offered us a bottle of the hotel's own red wine to take along, warning "there is no decent wine in Switzerland". We demurred, noting the weight, and so he quickly emptied a small plastic water bottle and filled it with wine, telling us to enjoy it when we reached the crest. Marianne placed it in one of her bottle holders and then we set off.
The weather was glorious - sunny, a cooling breeze and barely a cloud in the sky. The mountains were magnificent and we stopped often to take it all in. We made good time and after a late morning coffee by the lake, we climbed the final 200m up to the pass and were greeted by a host of other cyclists who had also taken on the challenge. In a shady spot by some large rocks (no trees at that altitude) we enjoyed our simple lunch, washed down with red wine - in truth a very nice drop.
The climb up from Prestone had a few sets of hairpins but nothing to compare with those on the Swiss side of the pass. We wound down through a long series of tight hairpins, before finally reaching the valley floor where we could again pick up some speed. We reached 65kph at times and sat for long periods in the 40-50kph range - exhilirating.
We soon reached Splügen and, after a break, continued down valley to Thusis, following a well-prepared cycle path on minor roads with little traffic. The path followed a raging mountain river and passed through two very deep, impressive gorges. We arrived there around 1600 and soon found a hotel where we could put our feet up. A large meal of pasta was planned in preparation for another climbing day tomorrow.
Prestone to Splügenpass
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Descent to Thusis
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Via Mala Gorge
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Marianne & David
Day 3 - Wed 16 Jul 2014 : Bivio
Another glorious day - absolutely ideal for mountain riding. We headed off early from Thusis, intent on reaching Bivio at altitude 1770m, the last village before the Julierpass. The climb comprised a series of steep sections (gradients of 10% or so) with intervening sections that were relatively flat. For much of the way the road parallels a wide, fast flowing mountain stream with numerous raging cascades. We made good time and reached Savognin for morning tea.
The Julierpass road is very popular with the motorbike and sports car fraternity (who can blame them) and it was impressive to see the cavalcade of expensive machinery zooming by.
We reached Bivio in the early afternoon (somewhat to our surprise, having climbed over 1200m) and decided to have an early stop and give our muscles a rest. We found a delightful hotel and soon had a comfortable room with a balcony with views onto the mountains. An afternoon nap was just the thing before another carbohydrate-packed dinner.
Thusis to Bivio
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Marianne & David
Day 4 - Thu 17 Jul 2014 : Oberbalm
After a cool night and crisp morning we headed up towards the Julierpass, climbing the final 500m over a 9km stretch, accompanied by a long procession of cars, trucks and tour buses. This route is obviously a preferred way to cross the Alps. Fortunately the traffic was generally very considerate and we reached the top after about an hour in the saddle. There were various other bikers at the crest, together with several coach-loads of tourists, and so, after a short break, we were not unhappy to continue on back down to Silvaplana and then onto St. Moritz, to complete our loop.
Having climbed close to 1800m from Thusis to the Julierpass we were reluctant to just surrender this effort and take the train back down from St. Moritz. So, to enjoy a long downhill run, we took our bikes on the train to Preda, located on the northern portal of the Albula Tunnel at elevation 1790m, and from there followed the less frequented Albulapass road back to Tiefencastel, a drop of more than 900m over a 25km distance, with some very steep sections along the way. A great way to complete our Alpine tour adventure.
As we descended we closely followed the Albula Railway, a single track narrow gauge railway line forming part of the core network of the Rhaetian Railway (RhB), in the Canton of Graubünden. Construction of the Albula Railway began in 1898, and the connection from Thusis to St. Moritz commenced operations in 1904. With its 55 bridges and 39 tunnels, the 62-kilometre long line is one of the most spectacular narrow gauge railways in the world. In 2008, the Albula Railway and the Bernina Railway, which also forms part of the RhB, were jointly recorded in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, under the name Rhaetian Railway in the Albula/Bernina Landscapes. The best known trains operating on the Albula Railway are the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express.[Wikipedia]
From Tiefencastel we took a train, first to Chur, then on to Pfäffikon SZ, before switching to the S-Bahn back to Wetzikon. The great facilities for cyclists on the trains made the trip easy and hassle-free. The final climb back up to Oberbalm was a minor struggle for muscles stiff after sitting in the train for a couple of hours, but the warm welcome received was more than adequate compensation.
Bivio to St. Moritz
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St. Moritz
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Preda to Tiefencastel
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