France - Moselle

Sarrebourg
Sun 22 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2423km
A later start after a long night of loud music and another visit to the 'Son et Lumière' display in Place Stanislas. After exiting Nancy we followed the 'Canal de la Marne au Rhin' for a considerable distance but after it deteriorated into a narrow grassy track we decided that it was quicker and safer to return to the road that closely followed the canal. Although this entailed more climbing and descending the going was easier and there was little traffic to distract us. With our differing speeds of travel each pair travelled separately, to avoid any undue pressure.

Along the way we stopped for coffee/tea and lunch although, of late, it has become increasingly difficult to find even a simple cafe in any of the small villages along the way. Fortunately, in Lagarde Marianne & David found a cafe open and when the proprietor brought the drinks he proudly added a bowl of cherries, picked that morning from the tree in his garden. Marianne's eyes lit up!

The road undulated and there was one exhilarating (and tiring) rollercoaster section. The momentum gained in the descents was never quite enough to make it over the next hump, demanding extra effort from the rider.

We reached Sarrebourg about 1600, a good run considering the rolling terrain and the wind conditions and headed directly to a hotel we had identified on the internet the previous night. Being a Sunday evening rooms were available and so we made ourselves comfortable (again).

Nancy to Sarrebourg

 

 

 

 

 

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France - Meurthe et Moselle

Nancy
Sat 21 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2344km (no change)
The Summer Solstice and Denis' birthday - double reason to celebrate! We've been told that across France the Summer Solstice is celebrated with street music and entertainment late into the evening and judging from what we have seen and heard, Nancy is no exception. We could hardly have chosen a better day to enjoy Nancy's attractions - glorious sunshine and lots of activity everywhere.

Nancy is situated on the left bank of the river Meurthe, about 10 km upstream from its confluence with the Moselle. The Marne–Rhine Canal runs through the city, parallel to the Meurthe. Place Stanislas, a large square built between March 1752 and November 1755 by Stanislaw I to link the medieval old town of Nancy and the new town built under Charles III in the 17th century, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The 'École de Nancy', a group of artists and architects founded by the glassmaster and furniture maker Émile Gallé, worked in the Art Nouveau style at the end of the 19th century and the early 20th century. It was principally their work which made Nancy a center of art and architecture that rivaled Paris and helped give the city the nickname 'Capitale de l'Est.' The city still possesses many Art Nouveau buildings (mostly banks or private homes). (Wikipedia)

Nancy - Summer Solstice

 

 

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Postscript
The evening celebration of the Summer Solstice continued till the wee hours and with the whole of the central city declared a pedestrian zone, the streets were awash with people of all ages. Numerous bands set up and played loud music of various (occasionally indecipherable) genres, while other just wandered about. We were particularly taken with the drum groups who created a thrilling rhythm. All in all an amazing scene. What a birthday!

 

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Nancy
Fri 20 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2344km
We set ourselves the challenge of reaching Nancy, about 85m away, so we could enjoy a full day there to take in its points of interest. Our route took us on minor roads across and along a series of river valleys and we knew that this invariably entailed a lot of ups and downs.

The weather was overcast and cool, almost chilly at times, with a light wind and it took a while to find the right gear to wear - not too hot when climbing, not too cold when zooming down again. As usual the scenery was superb and there was virtually no traffic. The wide expanses of crops were impressive.

We had opted to travel separately, each couple at their own pace, following a common route, at least until we neared Toul when each pair would decide, based on how they were feeling, the weather, etc as to whether to continue on for the last 30km to Nancy. As it turned out the hills were not as severe as expected, the wind and tempertures were moderate and so all decided to continue on, Marianne and David following the slightly longer river route, while Beth and Denis pursued the more direct route between Toul and Nancy.

Having climbed steadily as we approached Nancy, the entry into town was a long downhill run, all arriving around 1600 - a very good run. Nevertheless it was not straight-forward to find the town centre and, as Marianne and David were threading their ways with loaded bikes through the afternoon crowds towards the Tourist Office they happened on a nice hotel near the centre. After quickly checking availability of rooms, secure bike storage and price, they concluded this would be a good place to stay. After a few brief SMSs, Beth and Denis stopped their search for the centre and headed directly to the hotel. Fortuitously it was not far from where they were at the time.

We checked in and had a rest after our long day and then scrubbed up and ventured out into the bright evening light to explore a little. The centre, around Place Stanislas, with grand buildings, is amazing, both in the evening light and later (around 2300) when it was illuminated by a 'Son et Lumière' (Sound & Light) display, projected onto the buildings surrounding the large square.

We wandered through part of the old town where many restaurants were situated and chose one serving traditionional Lorraine specialities. Unfortunately, when David ordered Quiche Lorraine (what could be more local?), the waitress said distainfully 'Sorry, none left, the Germans came today and ate it all'. It seems we'll have to stay ahead of the coach tours tomorrow.

In the late evening, the town was in a happy boisterous mood - Friday night and France had just decisively won its World Cup game, taking it through to the round of 16. Lots of flag waving, honking of horns and blowing of trumpets to celebrate. A great atmosphere to enjoy the light show.

Ligny-en-Barrois to Nancy

 

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Nancy

 

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France - Meuse

Ligny-en-Barrois
Thu 19 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2257km
Another lovely morning - sunny but with a cooling breeze - and promise of temperatures in the mid-20s later in the day. We followed the bike route along the 'Canal de la Marne à la Saône' from Vitry-le-François to St-Dizier, an easy run on a well-maintained path. After a stop for coffee/tea in the town centre we purchased some baguette sandwiches to take with us for lunch and continued on our way, initially following the canal and then branching off across country.

The terrain undulated with numerous moderate climbs, rewarded by enjoyable downhill runs. Just after 1200 we stopped for lunch in a small grassed area with large trees, just off the minor road we were following. After eating we stretched out for a short snooze and then, re-invigorated, we headed on to Ligny-en-Barrois.

The early afternoon was hot and humid and we were soon feeling the effects and were thankful for the breeze and the stretches of forest where the temperatures were noticeably cooler. We arrived in Ligny-en-Barrois around 1500 and, after the experience yesterday, headed immediately to a hotel in the centre of town and were pleased to find they had (plenty of) rooms available.

Vitry-le-François to Ligny-en-Barrois

 

 

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France - Marne

Vitry-le-François
Wed 18 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2186km
Heading south-eastward we departed the Champagne region, saying farewell (for the moment) to the neatly combed hillsides of vines. In the much flatter terrain towards Châlon-en-Champagne, the large expanse of cereal crops, dotted with white painted silos, was reminiscent of some parts of rural Australia.

In the hazy morning light the scenery took on a special aura and we enjoyed the riding, making good progress despite some head winds. South of Châlon we followed the 'Canal Latéral à la Marne' for a period - easy riding that reminded us of our early canal path experiences.

We reached Vitry-le-François by mid-afternoon and after a stop for coffee/tea and icecream we went in search of a hotel. To our dismay, all the hotels in the town were full but the very helpful young woman at the Tourist Office persevered and finally found us two rooms in the only 'Chambre-d'Hôtes' (B&B) in town. The rooms were rather qwerky as each was equipped with a large spa bath in one corner, a cabinet with hand basin and an en-suite toilet tucked into a cupboard-sized room. After unloading our bikes we were glad to have a wash and put our feet up for a while.

Épernay to Vitry-le-François

 

 

 

 

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Épernay
Tue 17 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2108km (no change)     6 weeks on the road
A rest day and after the chores we arranged to visit the extensive cellars of Merciers, one of the many champagne houses located in Épernay. To reach Merciers we walked the length of Avenue de Champagne and were impressed by the magnificent houses, offices and storage facilities built by the various champagne entrepreneurs of past years.

Merciers is one of the larger firms, established in 1858, and it has an impressive 18km of cellars, 30m below ground in the native limestone. We signed up for a tour and after descending in a large elevator we climbed aboard a small train that slowly took us on a circuit through part of the cellar complex, giving us a glimpse of the many thousands of bottles stored there. In several places the tunnels are decorated with wall carvings. We were equipped with audio units that gave a running commentary in English throughout the journey.

Afterwards we sampled three of their champagnes and learnt a little about the art of champagne making. At the conclusion of an enjoyable visit we ambled back to our hotel, and had a productive hour or two planning the next phase of our travels.

Champagne Visit
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Épernay
Mon 16 Jun 2014     Cumulative distance 2108km
We wished for a change in scenery and today we received one in abundance. Along the Marne Valley and surrounding areas the hillsides were covered in vineyards, all dedicated to the making of champagne.

After a series of arduous days Beth & Denis opted to take the more direct route to Épernay following closer to the river, while Marianne & David took a more circuitous route with a few more climbs involved.

The vineyards were a flurry of activity as vines were trimmed and prepared for the summer, and small white vans (apparently standard equipment for champagne growers) dotted the landscape. Most trimming was done by machines ('praying mantises' as Denis called them) that straddle two rows of vines and have multiple whirling cutting blades to trim the sides and tops of the rows as they are driven along. They are also used to spray the plants. We stopped numerous times to admire the views as the road climbed and descended along the valley.

Every small village seems to have several champagne producers, with dozens in the larger ones, so the total number of individual companies supplying the champagne market must be staggering.

After a lunch stop along the way, we all arrived in Épernay around 1400 and met up at the Tourist Office, and soon moved into a centrally located hotel to rest and refresh ourselves. After six days on the road we have decided to take a rest day in Épernay, to complete the usual chores and allow us to discover more about the Champagne region, and sample some of its produce.

Épernay is a pleasant town, best known as the principal "entrepôt" for champagne wines, which are bottled and kept in large cellars built into the chalk rock on which the town is built. The production of the equipment and raw materials used in the champagne industry is a major source of local employment. (Wikipedia)

Château-Thierry to Épernay

 

 

 

 

 

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Épernay

 

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